Most travelers venturing to Vietnam take a route bookended by either Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. And while Ho Chi Minh City is dominated by the Mekong River, life in Hanoi revolves around its lakes. Nearly two dozen lakes are dotted across the city, none quite as famous as Hoan Kiem Lake and West Lake. At Hoan Kiem, residents and tourists mingle along the shores of lapping waters pierced by kingfishers and punctuated by the glowing, vermillion paint of Huc Duc Bridge and flickering candles of Ngoc Son Temple. At West Lake, a shoreline loop trail travels past 1,000-year-old Quan Thanh Temple and the five-story silhouette of Tran Quoc Pagoda. And at Huu Tiep Lake, the lingering wreckage of a U.S. Air Force bomber serves as a solemn memorial for the nation’s turbulent 20th century.

While Uber got off to a hot start in Vietnam, the company was acquired in 2018 by a dominate player less familiar to American travelers. Grab is the go-to ride sharing app in Vietnam, and downloading it will provide access to Hanoi’s wide variety of private transportation options—including both cars and motorbikes. Hanoi also has a thoughtfully curated public bus system that uses more than 1,000 city buses to ferry visitors between around 100 stops. Buses run from 4:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., and costs less than $2USD.

Pro tip: buses must be paid for in cash using Vietnamese Dong. Limited bike share services are also available in Hanoi, mostly centered around tourist attractions. The TNGo app allows visitors to unlock bicycles using a QR code.

From 1873 until 1954—excluding six years during World War II—Hanoi was occupied by the French. And while Ho Chi Minh successfully pushed the French out of the city, its architecture still blends 19th and early 20th-century European styling with more ancient influences from Asia. The result is a stunning, sprawling district of boulevards and monuments. Visit the historic Hanoi Opera House, absorb the somber history of Hoa Lo Prison, visit the Vietnam National Museum of History (located in a former French archaeological institute) and explore the Vietnamese Women’s Museum for insight into the important role women play in Vietnamese culture.

The French Quarter is located on the southeast side of Hoan Kiem Lake and is an entirely different district than the nearby, bustling Old Quarter, located on the northern side of the lake. Pro tip: the Canadian and Aussie team at Moose & Roo Smokehouse host an authentic American barbecue joint complete with mac and cheese, pulled pork sandwiches and tiki bar vibes inside the U.S. Embassy here.

In contrast to the grand boulevards of the French Quarter, Hanoi’s Old Quarter is brimming with activity day and night. Its streets are compact, bristling with bars and often feel like a unique blend of spaces from both Hanoi and Paris. Old Quarter streets are lined with street food vendors dishing out Bun Cha, Pho, and Bahn Mi. Backpackers traditionally congregate in the Old Quarter, especially around the hostels of Ta Hien Beer Street. Head here for sunset views of the city from rooftop bars like Skyline Lounge and Moonlight Sky Bar or browse the endless aisles of Đồng Xuân Market for souvenirs and oddities.

Though Hanoi is a thriving, bustling metropolis replete with its own rich history, other area destinations often beckon visitors to this ancient citadel. The UNESCO World Heritage site at Ha Long Bay lures more than two million annual visitors to its emerald labyrinth of islands, and many Hanoi-based hospitality brands have keyed in on that business. Cruise operators like Sena Cruises offer trip packages that includes transportation from Hanoi, though the nearly three-hour drive means some travelers might prefer to base their Ha Long Bay experiences out of Ha Long City or Cat Ba Island—both located on Biển Đông, more prominently known as the South China Sea. Pro tip: while a trip to Ha Long Bay should absolutely be on your Vietnam radar, save time to savor Hanoi itself.