Scotland, Ireland and Northern Ireland for 17 days in November
Nov 28th, 2024, 08:50 PM
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Scotland, Ireland and Northern Ireland for 17 days in November
This was a trip planned very last minute with help from Fodorites, readjustments, and advice sought, throughout due to weather. People challenged the time of year to take this trip due to weather, but this timing afforded us the ability to be flexible in our directions. The only "mistake" was not making certain that all accommodations and flights can be cancelled and/or rescheduled. The reasons will become apparent during this report. We have just returned, having a smooth travel, albeit long, day. We flew Icelandic Air from IAD to Glasgow and Aer Lingus for our visit to Ireland and Northern Ireland mid-trip round trip to Belfast. More to come tomorrow.
Dec 1st, 2024, 09:40 AM
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First 5 days in Southwest Scotland: We flew into Glasgow airport, picked up the rental car, and drove about 2 hours to our friends who live outside of Dumfries, We stayed with them for 5 nights and during that time, we took day trips to the following sites: Caerlavrock Castle, Sweetheart Abby, the town of Moffat, countryside includes Devil's Beef Tub, the Stone Faces, also known as Quorum, at Galloway Forest Park, town of Wigtown, Camera Obscure at the Dumfries Museum, Annandale Distillery. Our host was a chef, so we had delicious meals! A few restaurants of note were Cafe Rendezvous in Wigtown and the Bank in Dumfries.
Dec 1st, 2024, 10:57 AM
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Days 6, 7, 8 and 9 in Northern Ireland: During our time in Scotland, the weather reports for our next stop, Northern Ireland, were not looking good-freezing rain, possible snow. We debated canceling, flying somewhere warm (there are cheap flights on Easy Jet and Ryan Air to the south of Spain, etc.). We decided to cancel all of the accommodations we were able to that were booked for what was to be the rest of the vacation in Ireland/Northern Ireland. There were two that it was too late to cancel in Ballycastle and Derry, but we had vouchers from them. In the end, we decided to go to on the flight to Belfast, and look at re-routing our trip, going to the other regions (Galway, etc.) first, essentially turning the trip around.
Day 6: After returning the car, we took an early flight from Glasgow to Belfast. As we were picking up the car there, the attendant, who grew up in Derry, suggested that weather reports for that area are unreliable and we should just give it a try. We did, and we were lucky...the weather was great-clear, cold, perfectly as we had planned. We drove straight to Ballycastle and our stay at the Glass Island Bed and Breakfast, a delightful place. We went to Nellie Rua's for a great Irish dinner and to bed.
Day 7: After a great provided breakfast, we headed along the Giant's Causeway route, with gorgeous scenery stops, to Giant's Causeway visitor center. We took the walking tour provided with admission and the bus back to the center. Headed back towards the Antrim Coast along the coastal highway, stopped at Glenariff Forest for the overlook, and on toe Glenarm Castle and a snack at the teahouse. Returning back to Ballycastle, we had an underwhelming dinner at The Diamond Bar, but met some great locals for conversation. We spent a second night.
Day 8: The next morning, on the way to Derry, we made a stop at Magheracross viewpoint and drove into Derry. We valet parked the car at Bishop's Gate Hotel, a wonderful accommodation, booked our tour for the afternoon, walked around the area some, was gifted a map from the used book store, and took McCrossan's City Tour which was excellent. We had made reservations for dinner at the hotel Wig and Gown Restaurant, and it was perfection.
Day 9: Great breakfast again at hotel, visited Tourist info center, went to the Guildhall, took our own walking tour of the murals a la Rick Steve, walked across the Peace Bridge and back and had a good lunch at the Guildhall Tavern. We went to the Craft Village Cafe for dessert, and then dinner at the Hervey Library at the Bishop's Gate Hotel. Another delicious dinner.
Day 6: After returning the car, we took an early flight from Glasgow to Belfast. As we were picking up the car there, the attendant, who grew up in Derry, suggested that weather reports for that area are unreliable and we should just give it a try. We did, and we were lucky...the weather was great-clear, cold, perfectly as we had planned. We drove straight to Ballycastle and our stay at the Glass Island Bed and Breakfast, a delightful place. We went to Nellie Rua's for a great Irish dinner and to bed.
Day 7: After a great provided breakfast, we headed along the Giant's Causeway route, with gorgeous scenery stops, to Giant's Causeway visitor center. We took the walking tour provided with admission and the bus back to the center. Headed back towards the Antrim Coast along the coastal highway, stopped at Glenariff Forest for the overlook, and on toe Glenarm Castle and a snack at the teahouse. Returning back to Ballycastle, we had an underwhelming dinner at The Diamond Bar, but met some great locals for conversation. We spent a second night.
Day 8: The next morning, on the way to Derry, we made a stop at Magheracross viewpoint and drove into Derry. We valet parked the car at Bishop's Gate Hotel, a wonderful accommodation, booked our tour for the afternoon, walked around the area some, was gifted a map from the used book store, and took McCrossan's City Tour which was excellent. We had made reservations for dinner at the hotel Wig and Gown Restaurant, and it was perfection.
Day 9: Great breakfast again at hotel, visited Tourist info center, went to the Guildhall, took our own walking tour of the murals a la Rick Steve, walked across the Peace Bridge and back and had a good lunch at the Guildhall Tavern. We went to the Craft Village Cafe for dessert, and then dinner at the Hervey Library at the Bishop's Gate Hotel. Another delicious dinner.
Dec 1st, 2024, 01:21 PM
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Days 10 and 11:
Day 10:When our car was brought to us, it had snow and ice on it. The roads, though, were all clear. After a great breakfast, we headed towards the Grianan Aileach Ring Fort. The GPS took us on a hilly road which was icy. We could not maneuver. An angel of a man hopped into the car and helped us get to a more passable road that took us out to treated highways. We decided to not go to the Fort and spent a few hours reconsidering this part of the trip. We decided to proceed to Glenveagh Castle and National Park, as the weather, and predictions, were good. The views, the castle and the park were gorgeous. We tour the self-guided tour of the Castle and had lunch in the tearoom. The staff recommended a nearby hotel for the night-An Chuirt. We checked in after driving through more spectacular scenery, had dinner and called it a night.
Day 11: We drove to Assaranca Falls on windy, narrow roads. This was well worth it; the falls are tremendous and right off the road. Then, on to Sliabh Liag Cliffs. These are Ireland's tallest sea cliffs in the Wild Atlantic Way with stunning views of the Atlantic, Sligo Mountains and Donegal Bay- a best kept secret. We drove to Donegal Town for our stay at the Gateway Hotel.
Day 10:When our car was brought to us, it had snow and ice on it. The roads, though, were all clear. After a great breakfast, we headed towards the Grianan Aileach Ring Fort. The GPS took us on a hilly road which was icy. We could not maneuver. An angel of a man hopped into the car and helped us get to a more passable road that took us out to treated highways. We decided to not go to the Fort and spent a few hours reconsidering this part of the trip. We decided to proceed to Glenveagh Castle and National Park, as the weather, and predictions, were good. The views, the castle and the park were gorgeous. We tour the self-guided tour of the Castle and had lunch in the tearoom. The staff recommended a nearby hotel for the night-An Chuirt. We checked in after driving through more spectacular scenery, had dinner and called it a night.
Day 11: We drove to Assaranca Falls on windy, narrow roads. This was well worth it; the falls are tremendous and right off the road. Then, on to Sliabh Liag Cliffs. These are Ireland's tallest sea cliffs in the Wild Atlantic Way with stunning views of the Atlantic, Sligo Mountains and Donegal Bay- a best kept secret. We drove to Donegal Town for our stay at the Gateway Hotel.
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Dec 1st, 2024, 01:58 PM
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Days 12 and 13:
Day 12: We left Donegal after a great breakfast and started to drive to Belfast. We had decided to end our time in the north of Ireland because the good weather was coming to an end. We will want to visit more southern areas another trip. We encountered some road diversions sue to flooding. Some lovely Irelanders helped direct us. We reached our accommodations, Harrison Chambers Hotel, and visited the City Hall Christmas market and had drinks back at the hotel.
Day 13: Enjoyed Belfast! Started with the Hop on Hop off bus tour, went to St. George's Market, Titanic Experience and had dinner at Holohan's Restaurant near our hotel (authentic Irish cooking-Boxty with seafood filling).
Day 12: We left Donegal after a great breakfast and started to drive to Belfast. We had decided to end our time in the north of Ireland because the good weather was coming to an end. We will want to visit more southern areas another trip. We encountered some road diversions sue to flooding. Some lovely Irelanders helped direct us. We reached our accommodations, Harrison Chambers Hotel, and visited the City Hall Christmas market and had drinks back at the hotel.
Day 13: Enjoyed Belfast! Started with the Hop on Hop off bus tour, went to St. George's Market, Titanic Experience and had dinner at Holohan's Restaurant near our hotel (authentic Irish cooking-Boxty with seafood filling).
Dec 1st, 2024, 02:53 PM
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Days 14, 15, 16 and 17:
Day 14: Given weather, etc., we decided to leave Ireland/Northern Ireland and return to Scotland 3 days early. We changed our flight to a very early flight back to Glasgow and really weren't sure what we were going to do in Scotland for these 3 days. Our first decision was not to rent a car and, based on a recommendation from our Scottish friend, we decided to find a hotel in the West End/ University area of Glasgow. It's on the "coolest" neighborhoods list. We found an amazing hotel at a last minute rate-Alamo Lodge-in this great neighborhood of Glasgow near the University and museum. We took the Hop on Hop off bus tour, had a delicious Indian lunch at Mother Indian, visited Kelvingrove Museum. We decided to sign up for a Rabbie's tour to many of the places to which we wanted to return, but did not want to drive. We spent 6 weeks in Scotland many years ago.
Day 15:
The tour was "Oban, Glencoe, Highland Lochs and Castles". We saw what their description states with a wonderful guided narration-- "epic ruined castles, listen to tales of old clan rivalries, and venture through brilliant mountain scenery on this tour to the Scottish Highlands". This company was recommended by a Fodorite. We were fortunate to have lovely weather for this day, too. This included: Kilchurn Castle, Loch Linnhe (Castle Stalker from the Monty Python film), walked around Oban and enjoyed fish and chips from Oban Fish and Chips (the best), on to Glencoe and seeing James Bond "Skyfall" road and more. We took a cab to our neighborhood and returned to Mother Indian for their fabulous food.
Day 16:
We decided to stay in our great neighborhood after another great breakfast and visited University of Glasgow, went to an organ concert at Kelvingrove Museum, had lunch at the Hidden Lane Teahouse, and dinner at Crabshack.
Day 17: early trip to Glasgow airport for our flight home.
Day 14: Given weather, etc., we decided to leave Ireland/Northern Ireland and return to Scotland 3 days early. We changed our flight to a very early flight back to Glasgow and really weren't sure what we were going to do in Scotland for these 3 days. Our first decision was not to rent a car and, based on a recommendation from our Scottish friend, we decided to find a hotel in the West End/ University area of Glasgow. It's on the "coolest" neighborhoods list. We found an amazing hotel at a last minute rate-Alamo Lodge-in this great neighborhood of Glasgow near the University and museum. We took the Hop on Hop off bus tour, had a delicious Indian lunch at Mother Indian, visited Kelvingrove Museum. We decided to sign up for a Rabbie's tour to many of the places to which we wanted to return, but did not want to drive. We spent 6 weeks in Scotland many years ago.
Day 15:
The tour was "Oban, Glencoe, Highland Lochs and Castles". We saw what their description states with a wonderful guided narration-- "epic ruined castles, listen to tales of old clan rivalries, and venture through brilliant mountain scenery on this tour to the Scottish Highlands". This company was recommended by a Fodorite. We were fortunate to have lovely weather for this day, too. This included: Kilchurn Castle, Loch Linnhe (Castle Stalker from the Monty Python film), walked around Oban and enjoyed fish and chips from Oban Fish and Chips (the best), on to Glencoe and seeing James Bond "Skyfall" road and more. We took a cab to our neighborhood and returned to Mother Indian for their fabulous food.
Day 16:
We decided to stay in our great neighborhood after another great breakfast and visited University of Glasgow, went to an organ concert at Kelvingrove Museum, had lunch at the Hidden Lane Teahouse, and dinner at Crabshack.
Day 17: early trip to Glasgow airport for our flight home.
Dec 1st, 2024, 03:03 PM
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Reflections: This all worked well because we were able to be flexible due to it being off-season. In urban areas, even though it was off-season, we found it helpful to have dinner reservations. Having the proper cold weather clothing was essential. Also, in the future, we will book flights that can be cancelled.
We appreciated all the help from this forum and even in the real-time of the trip!
We appreciated all the help from this forum and even in the real-time of the trip!
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